Revealing the Secrets of Professional Photographer Techniques: Exposure Triangle!

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Exposure is the amount of light entering the camera’s photographic medium (film negative on the manual camera and image sensor on a digital camera) when shooting.
If the amount of light entering the photographic medium is too much, the photo becomes too bright, the term is overexposure, if too few photos become too dark the term is underexposure, and if the photo matches what we want it is called optimal exposure.
Exposure Value (EV) is a number used to determine the amount of light entering.
1. Underexposure (ajuskoto)
2. Optimal Exposure (ajuskoto)
3. Overexposure (ajuskoto)
While the factors that influence the small amount of light entering are Aperture, Shutter Speed ​​and ISO.
All three are interrelated and cannot be separated so that they are often called the Exposure Triangle.
4. Exposure Triangle
Well, the coolest thing is, if you’ve really mastered all three, you can create powerful, tricky photos, like the one below:
5. Sarah Lee
6. Sarah Lee
7. Irrigation Sprinklers-Bobby Haas
8. Slow Shutter Effect-Claude Sadik
To produce photos above, you need a digital camera that is really true (read: DSLR Pro) heheheh …
Slow jazz … if the reader is really interested in photography, it’s easy to understand these three things, I’m sure the reader will understand it after it’s finished reading this article which is the basis for jumping higher into the world of photography, trust me it works ^, ^
••Exposure Triangle••
1. Aperture
Aperture is a hole / circle on the front of the camera that works together with the shutter (diapraghma) to control the amount of light entering the image sensor.
The larger the diameter of the hole the greater the light entering. In addition to adjusting the incoming light, the aperture also functions to regulate depth of field (DoF) (how come the DoF doesn’t work …? Wait ya … ^ _ ^).
The symbol of the size of the aperture is the f-number or f-stops, the greater the f-number means the smaller the diameter of the hole (figure 9).
••Depth of Field (DoF)••
DoF is usually translated with sharp space. Sorry, try taking a pencil or other small object, hold it and place it about 30 cm in front of your eyes.
Once again sorry (the problem is I told you this.> <), Now your eyes are staring at the pencil (about 3 seconds), then poke your eyes while continuing to stare at it.
When you widen your eyes “images that are visible to the eye” is called a wide, sharp space, and when you squint your eyes the image seen is called narrow sharp space.
When you squeeze your pencil it will look sharper or more focused, right? Well, that’s what is meant by DoF, it’s easy to understand, right? ^ _ ^
10. Effect of Aperture on Depth of Field
Back to the laptop … uh … the camera, the smaller the number f-stops the sharper the DoF, and vice versa (figure10). The background image of the left horse is more blurred than the image on the right. This trick is very good for close-up and macro photos.
2. Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is usually translated by shutter speed. Shutter speed functions to regulate how long the image sensor is exposed to incoming light in seconds. The freez effect trick uses a very fast shutter speed.
The picture of the left helicopter blade appears blurred at a shutter speed of 1/100 second, while the image to the right of the bar looks as if it stops (Figure 13).
3. ISO
ISO (International Standard Organization) is a term used to determine the sensitivity of film sensors on digital cameras.
This term comes from the era of manual cameras to mention the sensitivity of the chemical emulsion of film to light (ASA) where the unit is ISO in a certain number, ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200 to 6400, it is likely to increase again. But the term ISO is still used in the digital era.
Usually the ISO value setting is used to optimize exposure, if the aperture and shutter speed settings are not satisfactory.
The higher the ISO value, the higher the sensitivity to light. Unfortunately the higher the value of the grainy effect on the image is clearer (Figure 12). ISO settings are important in night photography, or objects that are in a dimly lit room / environment.

12. Sandy Effects on Photos

Ok … the quick way to truly understand the three is direct practice. Know the three regulator buttons.
Record each number when taking the first photo, change the number of one factor such as the ISO number, take a photo, change it again, take it again, and so on for the aperture and shutter speed factors.
Don’t forget to give a special name to each photo according to the number settings, but instead confuse himheheh.
Actually the record settings already exist in these files that can be seen on the LCD camera or computer using ACD See or Photoshop software.
If you really know how, it means that you don’t need to print the numbers when taking photos>. <
Then observe the numbers of the three factors and the changes that occur in the results of the photo. Thus it will be easy to understand the influence of each factor.

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